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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. But, tucked high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.